Fabulous and Artistic Maison Martin Margiela 2014 Collection
PARIS -- It was a delicate dance
between masculinity and femininity in the Maison Martin Margiela spring 2014
collection shown Friday afternoon at Paris Fashion Week.
Inspired by
the circus, this season's Maison
Martin Margiela lineup balanced the fashion-forward with
the wearable fairly well. The inspiration came through strongest in the
paneled black and red pants, ringleader jackets, harlequin-inspired
geometric accents, fringe-accented tops, long and somewhat baggy coats and sheer
fabric overlays.
The collection was at its strongest when looks were kept
clean-lined, as was the case with trousers with contrast waistbands, sequin
tops and outerwear. When textures were mixed, the results veered too much
towards costume. Ditto for the sliced sleeve tops that closed out the
collection.
The look: Tailored suit pieces and elegant silk
slips with decorative flourishes to add on, such as removable, structured
velvet sleeves and chiffon trains attached with elastic bands, or crystal-embroidered,
corseted dresses that looked as if they had been sliced apart, turned around
and worn as elegant coats.
The suiting was gorgeous too, including a blazer that tied in
back, left suggestively open to reveal a hint of skin. Another standout? A
sleeveless pinstripe suit jacket with a lingerie-like ruched tulle bodice, worn
over suit pants.
The verdict: an interesting and inventive way of thinking about
day-to-night dressing. (Instead of putting on sparkly jewelry or shoes, how
about fastening on a pair of gorgeous sleeves or a diaphanous train?) It was
also refreshing to see some strong tailored pants and jackets on the
runway in a season with so many skirts and dresses.
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